Saturday, June 2, 2007

All Around Xi'an





We began our second day in Xi’an with a 7:30 wake-up call. After eating some breakfast at the hotel, we departed for our first stop: The Big Wild Goose Pagoda. This iconic structure stands 64 meters high, and is arguably one of the most famous structures in Xi’an- a city rich with ancient Chinese history. The pagoda has two primary functions: Buddhist book storage and relic storage and preservation. Ancient Buddhist works are preserved in the temples surrounding the structure, as well as in the structure itself. The pagoda was constructed in the Shang dynasty, and continued to flourish in the Tang dynasty. The story behind the name of the pagoda involves an ancient monk named Xuen Zang, who was a renowned scholar of the time. Buddhist legend maintains that during a religious pilgrimage to India, Xuen Zang ran out of food. Out of nowhere, a goose fell down from the sky. Thus, Xuen Zang survived and continued to spread Buddhism throughout China. We walked around the pagoda, viewing the surrounding temples. The most interesting building we saw was a Buddhist shrine dedicated to Xuen Zang. There were several sacred Buddhist texts next to the shrine that Xuen Zang had translated from Sunshrit (Indian dialect) to Chinese; in total he translated over 1,130 texts. We also received our individual zodiac stamps on our tickets in order to commemorate the day.
After we had finished circling the pagoda, we headed for the “Tang Paradise Garden,” a newly created complex celebrating the prosperous and innovative Tang dynasty period. Immediately after entering the park, we were greeted by a drum troupe dressed in traditional Chinese attire. The performers utilized a wide variety of drums and symbols. I was a little apprehensive when the leader of the troupe pulled me down with the performers, but luckily he just wanted to take a picture! In one of the main buildings of the compound, we listened to Chinese musicians playing traditional Tang instruments (primarily stringed). It was strange to see that we were the only “foreigners” in the entire park; usually there are at least a few other foreigners in the main tourist attractions. I discovered that this was because non-Chinese people are not usually allowed to enter the park. After the musical performance, we enjoyed a traditional “lion dance,” where two acrobats move in synch with one another to mimic the movements of a lion. It was amazing to see one of the acrobats on the shoulders of another, balancing precariously on narrow metal beams. It was definitely the highlight of the garden trip!
After our stay at the garden, we went to eat lunch at a very “foreign-oriented” hotel. Camryn, Kim, and I were ecstatic to find a bathroom with actual toilets, toilet paper, and soap! The food was buffet-style, and was similar to American-Chinese food- something that now seems very strange! We also enjoyed using forks- something that is now very hard to find.
Our next stop was the famous “peasant farmers gallery.” Modern Chinese artwork depicting rural lifestyles became a true genre of art in 1958. The genre was particularly prevalent during the Chinese Cultural Revolution, when a rural lifestyle was revered. We viewed many pieces, including shadow puppets, paper cutting art, historic postage stamps, and oil paintings. The gallery employees then let us try our hand at calligraphy. It was apparent that some of us were more artistically gifted than others, but the experience was very fun.
After we left the gallery, we began yet another 2 hour bus ride to get to the Fa-men temple. This temple is famous in China because it contains the finger bone of Buddha. It was originally constructed 1,400 years ago, during the Eastern Han dynasty. The temple was re-built in 1988, after the discovery of holy relics underneath the temple in 1978. The most significant discovery was the finger bone of Buddha. After viewing the holy relics that had been found in what is referred to as the underground “palace,” we browsed the grounds for about 20 minutes. On the way back to the bus, an elderly woman approached us asking for empty bottles. Ever since we arrived in China, it’s become clear that there is a large disparity between the very wealthy and very poor. We have come across several beggars, mostly small children and elderly people. Because we have been drinking a lot of bottled water, we have all been saving our bottles to give to these unfortunate people. The woman was certainly pleasantly surprised when we gave her a giant trash bag full of empty bottles!
After arriving back in the city, we ate dinner at a vegetarian restaurant. The food was very different from Shanghai cuisine, but we all enjoyed the meal. Tomorrow we head for Zhengzhou to stay with our host families. Wish us luck!
-Julie

Friday, June 1, 2007

Mountain Climbing





Today we got a unique opportunity - to climb the heavenly ladder and spend time on Mount Huashan. Shaped like a lotus flower the mountain has five peaks, and is regarded as one of the five holy mountains of China. Our climb started at 7:30 A.M., with a fun wake-up call. At least we are finally starting to adjust to the ‘through the looking glass’ effect of the time change. Anyhow we gathered our stuff, got on the bus, and drove off into the distance. Distance being one and a half miles (ed. Its late and I want to sound dramatic). The base station was a cable car lift – instead of hiking up the whole mountain, which while no doubt epic is also long, we took a rather nerve racking ride. It makes one thankful for the well known Communist emphasis on safety… in any event despite a little rocking we got to the top. Only pictures can really describe the view. The mountainside was covered in trees, and the sheer rock face was lit beautifully by the noon sun. The rest I will leave to pictures. An interesting group of people greeted us on the top of the mountain. I will never be able to get over how every attraction in China is merchandised. The sight of it all was pretty ridiculous. Any flat ground had a stand on it. After a two hour free climb (where everyone summited at least one peak) we took another ride on the cable car and returned to our hotel for lunch. After some standard Chinese fare we got back on the bus and headed into Xian to watch a recreation of Tang dynasty in music, song and dance. In the Shanxi opera house a troupe reenacted ten different acts. While I am not one for theater, I have to say it was incredibly beautiful. In particular the spring festival dance was extremely impressive. Following the show we had a dumpling feast. Emphasis here on feast. About seven courses of dumplings, ranging from ones filled with (and shaped like) ducks to pumpkin dumplings. It was delicious. We also got some weirder food. The jellyfish was surprising in that it was edible, and also surprising in that everyone tried it. So finally after every piece was finished, most of them eaten by Colin, we returned to the hotel and we are settling in for the night.
-Ben G.

Terra Cotta Warriors





The day began in Xi’an, when Camryn, Julie and I crossed the street to buy water. We greatly amused the clerk by speaking in Chinese. The water inside was fine, but the dusty exterior of the bottle was just another thing that made us reflect on how clean we are used to having everything.
After checking out, we boarded the bus and drove the Ban Po Museum. It is said to be build on the site of a civilization that existed 6,000 years ago. The Museum consists of some buildings that are built around excavation sites and some buildings that contain 10,000 plus artifacts discovered. Our tour guide said that only a fraction of the site is on display to the public. We saw sections with information on different cultural aspects. That on living displayed a previous village site. In the burial section we saw how different pots were placed throughout a grave in specific layout in orientation to the body, and how children were incased in points with small hole for their souls to escape our of. The last section was on pottery making, and it demonstrated the difference between vertical and horizontal kilns. Despite the scale of the Museum, we all couldn’t help but feel slightly skeptical – how do we know that someone dug that hole 6,000 years ago, or used that rock to weigh down a net?
We all pondered over the “thermal-energy plant,” that had hourglass shaped cooling towers and purely white smoke. Last year Mr. Velto said these were definitely nuclear plants, and we had a discussion over which the plant really was. We saw two of these plants, one in the city and one right next to the town we are staying at tonight at the base of Mount Hua Shan. All of us decided to research the different energy plants as soon as we were in range of internet connection.
We next visited a Terra Cotta Factory, which in addition to the displayed craftsman carving out warriors and horses, had an expansive show with all sorts of Chinese items for sale.
The real Terra Cotta Soldiers came next. The Museum displaying them was similar to the Ban Po one we saw earlier; it was build on top of the site with the excavation only just started. One of the four farmers who discovered the soldiers is still alive, and he sits and signs books all day long.
Another two and a half hour bus ride followed, in which we got to view what most of China is like. Farms and dilapidated buildings surrounded us for the journey up, but things got better as we approached the base of the mountain. After checking into our hotel and eating dinner, some of us went out walking at night in the town. Mr. Killmer pulled off some of the best deals, including a large painting for the same price we had brought smaller ones at earlier that day.
Tomorrow we will start up the mountain, armed with the new gloves we all had to buy at one yuan. We are all looking forward to getting back to the Xi’an Diamond Hotel and going to the sauna!

Wednesday, May 30, 2007

Xian





Today was quite interesting. We woke up at the crack of dawn (5) and said goodbye to Shanghai and flew into Xi’ an. For breakfast we had bananas, rolls, and something called “Yoghurt.” After arriving in Xi an around 11, we met our new bus driver and got onto our new bus, which isn’t quite as cute as our old one, which looked like a Carolina blue caterpillar. Then, well… we drove for two and a half hours into the Xi an countryside before finally arriving at the Huang Di Mausoleum. Xi’ an is our tour guide, Chris’s, hometown, so he was very enthusiastic in telling us about the many unique aspects of Xi’ an. One of the things that Chris explained to us was how the Yellow Emperor (Huang means yellow) was invited into heaven by the Yellow Dragon. He also told us about the four very important early inventions in China: the compass, paper, printing press and gun powder. Chris also went on to explain some of the modern day aspects of Xi’ an and the differences in the locations in the Shangi Province. In the Middle, is Xi’an, which grows mainly wheat and corn. In the north there is the desert, a natural gas production and the mausoleum. In the south here are mountains, and rice and peanuts are the main products.
Now, I enjoy nature as much as the next person and probably more, but the entire place was, while admittedly beautiful and incredibly historical, also soaking wet. After walking around for about an hour, everyone except Colin, who had been intelligent enough to bring an umbrella, was soaking wet. Even Chloe, our infamous charger horse, had taken some rain damage. Chloe was very busy today, sitting atop a beautiful scroll, and inside on the huge monument in Emperor Qin Shi Huang’s honor. After our visit to the mausoleum, we took a golf cart and headed up to the Huang Di Tomb… except not. After climbing about twenty flights of stairs to reach the tomb, we found out that Huang Di’s body was not actually buried there, but his clothes and shoes were. Muddy, soaking wet and just a tad bit tired, we got back on our bus and headed back to the city of Xi’ an. Three hours later we stopped and got dinner, which was very good. We had noodles, fish, fried dough and shrimp, and some kind of meatballs.

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Shanghai: The Adventure





Greetings from Shanghai! Day 2 began with a hearty greeting from a Western-style breakfast. “Western” meant bread, cereal, juice, and yogurt along with a plethora of other Chinese options to partake in. After a nice meal, we departed the hotel for a tour at Tekelec Shanghai Ltd. Co.

As one of the two students interning at Tekelec after the exchange trip ends, I was very nervous about what kind of place I would be working at for two weeks. Unfortunately, my fears would have ample time to increase on the way to the company. In addition to its rural location, Tekelec sits in the middle of a technology park that is in the middle of a series of technology parks. Needless to say, we got lost. After asking directions many times, we finally found the location.

Tekelec is an American-based corporation that specializes in telecommunications. The Shanghai branch of the company focuses on research and development. Upon arrival, we were whisked into a conference room to meet with several heads of the corporation. This was also the first time I was able to meet my host, Helen Huang. She was very nice, incredibly polite, and spoke English impeccably (SCORE!!!). We also had the privilege of meeting with the vice-president of the company, Ping. Ping, along with Peter, head of the hardware group, held up the Chinese stereotype that parents take immense pride in the success of their children. This extended to the point that Peter’s four year-old daughter is taught to say she “is born to attend Harvard University.” Afterward, we took a tour of the facility, learning about how server farms work, how their IP network worked, what each department did, as well as admiring the view from the top of the building.

Following our time at Tekelec, we enjoyed a deep conversation with our local tour guide, Lisa, about the history of Shanghai while on route to the Oriental Pearl TV Tower. The tower is the tallest TV tower in Asia and third tallest in the world. Once at the observation sphere, we were able to enjoy views of Shanghai from 269 meters above the ground. “Enjoy” is used very loosely here, as the city was perpetually covered in a thick haze for most of our stay. While at the observation deck, a group of Chinese soldiers from the nei wei division (like our National Guard) flooded the room. Kim, Camryn, and Julie wasted no time in asked the soldiers to take a picture with them. The soldiers with them looked so scared while our three girls could barely contain their laughter. After the tower, we ate lunch on a dragon boat parked in the harbor. IMPORTANT: Everyone is not only eating well while in China, we also are enjoying everything we eat. Following the meal, we went to the jade shop.

Going to the jade shop isn’t just a place to buy pretty stones; we also took a tour about the history and significance of jade in China. Afterward, we were led into a room filled with jade to purchase. We were subsequently mobbed by salespeople offering us “special student discounts” on everything from bangles to pendants to a “dragon ball,” a smooth ball that will glow in the dark. Mr. Kilmer was stalked by a sales representative, who continually offered the largest dragon ball to our beloved teacher. The dragon ball was originally priced at 9,800 RMB or $1,272. Mr. Kilmer’s desire to not sacrifice his children’s college fund forced the salesman to lower his asking price to $450 before we left the store. While Mr. Kilmer was fending off his salesman, we were all making our own purchases and enjoy a couple of cups of lychee tea. Finally, when we departed, Mr. Kilmer was yet again chased down and offered the dragon ball for $300 plus a case to carry the ball in and a present to keep his wife calm when he came home. He still refused, but his bargaining skills are still unmatched by the rest of us.

After the jade shop, we went to the Yu Yuan Gardens. This was a major tourist destination. The gardens, built by a man for his parents who lived in Shanghai, are very peaceful. However, outside the garden walls lie corridors filled with little shops and restaurants. We spent a little time in the shops, but most of us were happier to explore our first Chinese Starbucks. Now, we can all order espresso in Chinese (though, I still prefer tea).

Finally, we went to another restaurant on the top floor of a department store. This meal was quite good, but we were quite tired at this point, and looked forward to returning to our rock-hard beds at the hotel. Tomorrow, we will all wake up at 5 am our time to prepare for our flight to Xi’an. We have thoroughly enjoyed “the Paris of the East,” though it should probably be called the dig of the East; there is construction everywhere. Shanghai is a truly unique city where traditional Chinese culture melds seamlessly with Western culture. Tomorrow, we’ll have to see how we react to a city formed by 2,000 years of Chinese rule.

- John

Monday, May 28, 2007

Shanghai Night Tour




Shanghai has seen incredible growth in the last 10 years and has become the largest city in China and one of the most modern. It almost reminds me of downtown Tokyo with all the flashing lights, people hanging out and general craziness going on.

Shanghai Dinner




Dinner was a family style affair with tons of food. We ate duckling, black fungus, celery salad and soup with tomatoes in it. Everyone ate a lot. I was impressed!

We made it!



The flights went off smoothly and a short 14 hours later we arrived in Shanghai. The flight itself was pretty uneventful. Four movies (Freedom Writers, Pursuit of Happyness, Music and Lyrics and Catch and Release), some card games and some napping helped the time go by. Everyone got their luggage and we zipped through immigration and customs.We arrived to a gray, cloudy day. The temperature is about 72 and very humid. We are now getting settled in the hotel and trying desperately to stay awake. In about half an hour we are off to dinner (though my body still thinks it is 6:00 AM) and a night tour of Shang Hai. Hopefully there will be more later tonight!